What is radon mitigation and how much does it cost?
Have you been told you need to have your radon checked? Or did you have a home inspection where having a radon system installed was brought up?
Do you need to worry about radon?
How does radon get in your home?
Is radon dangerous?
We're going to go through what you need to know about radon mitigation, if you have questions reach out to a pro!
What is radon?
Radon is a radioactive natural gas that can be detrimental to your health. Radon is colorless and odorless. There are trace amounts outdoors, but it disperses quickly and is (mostly) not a health issue. However, it becomes an issue when people are exposed inside homes, schools, and offices. Radon gas gets trapped inside after it enters a home through cracks in the foundation. There are ways to manage indoor radon exposure with the help of a professional radon mitigation specialist.
Radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States, so it is crucial to make sure your home is safe.
How do you test for radon?
You can hire a pro on Zaarly to test for radon. You can also choose to purchase a kit at a hardware store. Follow the instructions and make sure you leave the kit in your home for the number of days instructed in
What is radon mitigation?
If you discover that you have radon in your home, radon mitigation is the answer and is a reasonably straightforward process to making your home safe again.
Radon mitigation is the procedure of lowering radon levels below 4.0 picocuries per liter. Ideally, you want that number to be much lower. The mitigation systems will prevent radon from getting into your home, or they will reduce the radon already in your home.
There are two types of radon mitigation, active radon mitigation, and passive radon mitigation. Active radon mitigation is a dynamic mitigation system that uses a fan to move radon outside your home.
Passive radon mitigation doesn't use a fan.
Passive systems are mostly found in new homes and can work well for reducing radon levels if a pro installs the system. Passive systems do not move enough radon out of a house when levels are very high. The National Radon Defense recommends active systems because they'll keep your levels low.
If you already have a passive system, you can generally upgrade to an active system with no issues.
Types of radon mitigation systems:
A few different radon mitigation systems are meant for different kinds of foundations (basement, crawl space, slab-on-grade). Many systems can be subdivided into passive and active types. Our pros almost always go with the active systems.
Basement and slab-on-grade systems
Sub-slab suction: The most common radon reduction method for sub-slab/basement foundations. Pipes are inserted into crushed rock or soil beneath the house, either going through the floor slab or outside the home. Generally, just one pipe is necessary, but sometimes more will need to be installed. With active versions, a fan is added to draw in the radon and push it outside the home.
Drain-tile suction: If your house already has drain tiles or perforated pipes to direct water away from the foundation, sometimes suction is added to the pipes to redirect radon in addition to the water.
Sump-pump suction: This uses an existing sump pump and basin. The sump basin is capped and then used for the location of the radon suction pipe.
Block-wall suction: This is like the sub-slab suction and uses the hollow block foundation walls to depressurize the walls and remove radon.
Sub-membrane depressurization: This is the most effective mitigation method. The reinforced plastic liner is laid over the dirt floor, and a vent pipe and fan combo are used to suck the radon from under the sheet and to the outdoors.
Venting: Installing vents in the crawl space can be a suitable method for removing radon. They can be passive, or if fans or added, they can be active. This method is not recommended because of its increase in energy cost and increase in humidity.
Sealing: Sealing the cracks in the foundation makes it harder for radon to enter a home. Sealing isn't practical as a stand-alone method and should only be used in conjunction with a radon mitigation system.
House pressurization: In this system, a fan blows air into the basement or living space from the outdoors or the home's upper level. This creates pressure at the lowest level of the home to prevent radon from ever getting in. This is not a recommended, go-to choice of pros.
Energy recovery: An energy recovery ventilator increases the ventilation in your home. This system is the most effective system to improve the overall air quality in your home. Installed by a pro, ERVs can reduce radon levels by around 75%.
Natural ventilation: When you can, open the windows, doors, and vents near the basement. Natural ventilation is not a permanent or long-term fix but can help return levels normal when doors/windows/vents are closed.
What do you need to do to maintain your radon system?
Radom systems have warning devices that will let you know when you need to check on your system. Radon systems need occasional maintenance, like the system fans might need to be repaired/replaced.
Maintaining your system
- Get your system checked out by a pro twice a year.
- Energy recovery ventilation systems (ERVs) also require mainteance. It would be best if you had the ventilator checked out by an HVAC pro on Zaarly once a year. The interior vent should be changed twice a year.
- Make sure you keep up with the mainteance of your radon system, so it continues to do its job.
How much is radon mitigation?
Radon mitigation will cost on average $950 with price ranges between $700 - $1200. Larger homes with complex foundations can cost up to double an average home. Testing for radon costs anywhere from $100 - $750, depending on your home's size and the current system.
Costs of different types of systems
Radon reduction systems:
Active sub-slab depressurization or suction: $600-$3000
Passive suction: $400-$2500
Lower level pressurization: $400 - $1200
Sealing: $400 - $1600
Active sub-slab suction/depressurization system cost
Drain tile: $700 - $1800
Sump hole: $600 - $2500
Block: $1500 - $3500
Have questions? Need to set up service? Reach out to a radon mitigation pro!